Standard Straight Effects Instruction
- Consultation and evaluation of the hair.
- Determine if pre-softening step is needed. Extreme straightening requires presoftening.
When in doubt if pre-softening is needed, always pre-soften to assure sufficient processing to straighten the hair.
- If pre-softening is not needed, then skip the pre-softening steps below and proceed to the section entitled “Hair Preparation When Not Pre-Softening”
- Without shampooing, apply Tiger Reconstructor protein spray for hair. to dry hair to the point of saturation. (Deep Cleansing is not required because the pre-softening step demineralizes the hair itself.)
- Lightly towel dry the hair, then dry the TR into the hair with heat by the fastest or most convenient method. Dry to complete dryness. (The hotter the better.) Do not comb the hair during this step.
- Put gloves on.
- Mix pre-softening solution into a color-application bottle that is equipped with a cap with applicator tip:
- Pour 1 1/2 oz CE Normal Perm solution, add 1/2 oz.Covalent Structurizer.
- Add 1 oz Tiger Moisture Masque and mix by shaking. (Double these quantities when needed for clients with lots of hair.)
- Apply the solution to the hair starting in the back at the nape of the neck from the roots to the ends in small sections. Work as quickly as possible to saturate all of the hair. Use your fingers to work the product into the hair so that all of the hair is saturated. Do not attempt to comb the hair during this step. This will take more time and may damage the hair by over- stretching.
- If the hair has been previously straightened with either thio or sodium hydroxide relaxers, the pre-softening solution can safely overlap the previously relaxed hair. However, you can save time during the pre-softening step by not applying the solution on the previously straightened hair.
- Place the saturated hair onto and around the head and cover with a cap and go under a hot dryer for 30 minutes. (Time can be reduced if it is determined that less pre-softening is needed. When in doubt, always process longer.)
- Remove the cap and rinse the hair with warm water. Towel-dry the hair.
- The next step is step #15 below. SE Hair Preparation When Not Pre-Softening:
- Clarify with Cleanse Shampoo. (Lather, cap, five minutes under dryer, rinse)
- Optional second lather with Tiger Reconstructing Shampoo, rinse and towel-dry.
- Apply Tiger Reconstructor generously, twice the amount normally used to reconstruct hair.
- If the hair is not too curly and tangled, it is desirable to detangle the hair during this step with a pick. If the hair has been pre-softened, it is especially vulnerable to over-stretching, so detangle carefully! Some hair is just too curly and tangled and vulnerable and it is not wise to detangle at this time due to the possibility of damage. (Detangling at this step is desirable because it will speed up the next steps of application of processing solution, however, it is not absolutely necessary.)
- Dry the TR into the hair with heat by the fastest or most convenient method. Dry to complete dryness. The hotter the better. (By drying TR into the hair prior to all applications of thio pre-softening and SE Processing solutions, the more porous ends and other parts of the hair that have been previously colored or chemically processedare reconstructed in order to even out the porosity.)
- Put gloves on.
- Mix SE processing solution into a color-application bottle that is equipped with a cap with applicator tip:
- Pour 11/2 oz CE Normal Perm solution, add 1/2 oz Covalent Structurizer and mix.
- Add 2 oz Tiger Moisture Masque and mix by shaking. (Double these quantities when needed for clients with lots of hair.) Always use CE Normal solution.
- Apply the solution to the hair starting in the back at the nape of the neck from the roots to the ends in small sections. Work as quickly as possible to saturate all of the hair. If it is possible to comb the hair without damaging, comb each section of the hair after the product has been applied, using the back of the comb to create some tension. (The purpose of tension is to promote penetration of the solution into the cortex.) If the hair is too curly and tangled to safely comb it during this step, then be sure to work the solution into the hair thoroughly with your fingers.
- If the hair has been straightened previously, the SE Processing solution should still be applied scalp to ends. This SE Process will actually improve the condition of the previously processed hair.
- Wrap the saturated hair onto and around the head and hold it place with plastic wrap. Then cover with a cap and go under a hot dryer. (See the processing time chart.)
- Remove the cap and rinse the hair with warm water. Gently towel-dry the hair.
- Apply TR generously to the hair, twice the amount normally used to reconstruct the hair. Gently comb smooth. Dry the hair to complete dryness; the hotter the better.
- Use the Grund Straight Stick for the thermal ironing step.
- At this time, the hair has been processed (softened) with thio SE Processing solution and the disulfide bonds in the keratin protein have been broken. The gentle tension and heat of the flat iron will cause the keratin molecules to re-arrange into a straightened configuration. This molecular re-arrangement takes some time, so it is necessary to move the flat iron slowly.
- Starting at the nape of the neck, iron the hair in very thin sections, root to tip. (Thin enough sections to read a newspaper through). Work your way up the head, then around the entire head, being sure that all of the hair is ironed thoroughly.
- Too much tension while ironing the hair will cause the hair to over-stretch and be damaged. Too much tension can also create a kink in the hair at the scalp, resulting breakage. Therefore, it is necessary to iron each section of hair more than once with gentle tension. For very resistant hair, many repetitions are necessary. It is not always easy to tell when the hair has been ironed enough. Since the flat iron is giving the hair a heat set, it will appear straight before the internal keratin molecules are all re-arranged. When in doubt, do more repetitions!
- If the hair has been straightened before and the regrowth is the primary target for straightening, the processing steps are the same for all of the hair up to the point of the flat iron step. In this case, the regrowth hair is ironed repeatedly as directed above, but the previously straightened hair is ironed just once, slowly, with very little tension. This ironing of the previously straightened hair will cause the TR and Masque to bond covalently (permanently) into the hair and to reconstruct the hair. This is a deep internal hair cortex version of the Tiger Press and Masque Press.
- When all of the hair has been thoroughly ironed, it is ready for the neutralization step.
- Apply the neutralizer to the hair starting from the nape of the neck in the back of the head. Apply in sections, starting from the bottom, working up the head. This step should be done quickly, just making sure that all of thehair is saturated with neutralizer.
- Leave the neutralizer in for five minutes, rinse and towel-dry.
- Apply Tiger Moisture Mist, Smooth and style.
- If coloring same day, then following neutralization, rinsing and towel drying, apply TR and dry into the hair completely.
- Apply color as desired. Any color, on the scalp or off the scalp, including highlights and bleach.
- Finish with Tiger Moisture Mist, Smooth and style.
SE Processing Application:
Thermal Ironing Step:
Color Same Day Option:
- Resistant – 45 minutes
- Normal – 35 minutes
- Perm – 25 minutes
- Very Weak Damaged – 10 minutes
Contact ProDesign International at 1-800-235-7376 with any questions or comments.